DAY 6: PELLING TO YUKSOM
Its day 1 of my trek. Todays program was to travel from Pelling to Yuksom which was about 35km journey. Finishing my breakfast I waited outside my hotel for a shared cab. As it was weekend there was only 3 service. I waited for about 2 hours with not a single cab to Yuksom. Then as my hotel owner suggested I kept my luggage at the hotel and went to Geyzing to get the shared cab. Finally by 1630 hrs I reached Yuksom. The guest house owner welcomed me. I was the first in my group to reach the place. Keeping my backpack in my room, I came down and had a cup of coffee. The village was awesome and silent. As it was getting dark my co-trekkers arrived. We had a intro session before the dinner with our trek leads and guide. Our guide was Mr.Sunil a man in his 30's graduated in tourism from Goa. We were instructed to start the trek by 0830 hrs the next day.
DAY 7: YUKSOM TO SACHEN (7,150 ft)
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| my team |
The day's destination was Sachen situated at a height of 7,150 ft. I started my trek at 0800 in the morning. Everyone was eager to explore what is lying beyond this village. The entrance gate to the Kanchenjunga National Park was out of this world. By the side of the gate there is a waterfall humming its regular music. Crossing the river on a cantilever bridge, I was at the KNP entrance. After trekking all the way finally I reached my first camp. The trail till the camp was as usual stunning. For people from city the landscape was like a feast. By then our supporting staff have reached the place and started preparing our lunch. We moved to the camping site where our tents were pinched. Offloading our backpacks we wandered around.
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| at KNP gate.. |
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| camp at Sachen |
I had my lunch and had a short nap. By 5pm it was dark due to the dense forest. We were totally cut from the outer world. Cracking jokes, knowing more about each others the evening passed and it was time for dinner. After dinner we had a short briefing about our next day's trek.
DAY 8: SACHEN - TSOKHA (9700 ft) via BHAKIM
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| on the way to Bhakim |
It was 0630 in the morning. The entire landscape was illuminated by the rising sunrays. Birds were singing all around. Before me, my co trekker was awake and doing exercise. After having my breakfast I geared up for the days trek. Our guide briefed us that today's trek will be bit tough. So we should be properly stuffed and maintain a constant pace. We will be reaching Tsokha by lunch time. As usual the trail was amazing with waterfalls and landslides. Along with us another group from West Bengal was following. Many others were returning from Goecha La.
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| view from Bhakim |
We were often crossed by high energetic genetically modified animal called Yaks. They and their owners run all the way through the trail to set up camps before we reach. Literally they are superhumans. Enjoying the trek and sharing the life experience we reached a place called Bhakim. Bhakim is a on trail cool restaurant.
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| Bakhim restaurant |
The forest guest house of Bhakim was partially destroyed in the 2010 earthquake and still its unfit for staying. We had a cup of hot coffee and crushed raw Y Y. It was an excellent resting point. After spending about 45 min there we continued our trek to Tsokha. After a hour and half trek we reached Tsokha. Tsokha was well ahead of my imagination. It was like a mini village more than a camping area. Tsokha has few good restaurants and home stays. Finishing my lunch I started exploring the area around. The climate was cloudy and mist was all around. All of us were 26+ but the situation brought us all to our childhood. Jumping, running. We visited a near by monastery and a lake. Due to heavy cloud and mist it was pitch dark by 1700 hrs.
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| camp at TSOKHA |
It was dinner time and we were seriously discussing about the climate conditions. Just then our guide stepped in with a bad news. Climate to be same for next 3 days or to be worse due to low pressure in Bay of Bengal. Definitely the future was not bright. We were worried but not giving up hope. By then it started raining. I was praying to the almighty to do some miracle and give us a favourable condition on the summit day.
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| photography sec at Tsokha |
DAY 9: TSOKHA - DZONGRI (12980 ft)
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| in the HOBBIT land |
Day 3 since we started our expedition. Whether was same, cloudy and drizzling. The visibility was for few meters. We started our trek at 8.30 in the morning. The trail was slippery due to the rain and the yak dung made us to exercise a high maneuvering efficiency for each step ahead. We were instructed that we will be having our lunch at a place called Phethang. Before reaching Phethang a surprise unveiled before us- The Hobbit land. The exactly same as seen in the picture. Glowing mushrooms, ultra smooth algaes and the rain has give the special fx.
By 1200 hrs we reached Phethang and as usual our lunch was ready. Finishing our lunch we continued our trek. The landscape was getting more and more beautiful as we were progressing. My guide told us that during may june months the entire stretch would be bloomed with Rhododendrons. By evening we reached Dzongri. We were surprised to find similar tents of us in large number at Dzongri. Batch 1 stayed there because of bad weather. Dzongri has 3 good cafes and a trekkers hut from Sikkim government. Dzongri is the junction from where the trail splits into two, towards HMI base camp and another to Goecha la.
Till 1950, this route was used as the access way to the base camp for Kanchenjunga expedition. There after Indian government declared Kanchenjunga as sacred and expedition through route was stopped. At Dzongri I met a lady who's husband had guided Indian army expedition to Goecha la peak. The feel of proud can be felt from her words. Due to lack of space we pitched our tent near to river bed. During dinner we planned our next days program. If the weather clears around 4 in the morning, we will trek to Dzongri top else start our trek to next camp. Unfortunately the weather didn't clear up and we decided to trek to next camp. An additional problem was added. Our tents started leaking. A major problem to be worried.
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| campsite at DZONGRI |
DAY 10: DZONGRI - THANSING (12894 ft)
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| trail to Thansing |
We started our day's trek at 0800 hrs. After 1 1/2 hour trek on flat land it started descending. After approx 1 hour descend we reached Kockchurang, by the time it started raining heavily. Kockchurang is a campsite with a trekkers hut and a kitchen. As the rained didn't showed any symbol of stopping we decide to go ahead with our rain coats on. We crossed Prek Chu river in which the water was gushing with a loud bang. After a trek of about 2 1/2 hour we reached Thansing.
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| crossing Prek chu river while returning |
Thansing is an excellent campsite. At foothills surrounded by snow capped peaks and loud bang Prek Chu flowing by side. We enjoyed the evening by exploring near by areas and getting acclimatized. As our tents were leaking and the rain was playing hide and seek we decided to accommodate in the trekkers hut. After dinner we discussed about various strategies to be followed at various situations.
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| Thansing Camp |
Situation 1: If the rain continues, we will not trek to Lamuney and we will launch the expedition to Goecha la from Thansing early.
Situation 2: If the weather gets cleared up, as per schedule.
DAY 11: WAITING FOR THE SITUATION
It was raining heavily and visibility was very poor. We decided to follow situation 1. We know the decision was tough and the probability of success is low. But no other option was left with us as Lamuney doesn't have trekkers hut. The previous batch who were running a day behind schedule decided to trek till Samiti lake. The whole day passed just by enjoying the landscape and looking at the mountains and clouds, praying to clear up by night. We had an unforgettable evening that day. Everyone inside their own sleeping bag with just their head and hands out. Music playing at low, a lamp at centre discussing various travel stories.Awesome. Cup of hot tea in each ones hand and homemade bhel and crushed YoYo at center. This was the best group I had after my Sandakphu batch in 2011.
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| Prek Chu flowing by the side of Thansing |
During dinner we again brushed up our launch plan. If the weather gets clear we will start by 3 am else trek till Samiti lake. Everyone was worried but hoping for the best to happen.
DAY 12: THANSING - GOECHA LA - THANSING
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| Trail towards Lamuney from Thansing |
Its 3 in the morning I guess. A voice struck me shouting, wake up wake up guys. It was Rahul excited, its damn clear outside. We will go. I was thrilled and ran out to spot the star filled sky above and black giant mountains clearly visible. Within next 20 min everyone was in their trekking gear and ready to go. We started by about 0320 hrs. At half way to Lamuney we spotted a camping tent at the foothill of a giant mountain. They were climbers from Guwahati stuck due to rain. We reached Samiti at about 0700 - 0720 hrs. The lake appeared to be light greenish blue from a distance. We spend almost half hour at the lake had our breakfast and did some really cool photography by Vikranth.
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| at Samiti Lake |
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| Samiti from distance |
The Samiti was surrounded by mighty mountains. We continued our trek towards Goecha la. It was uphill and Prek Chu was flowing in opposite direction. Amazingly we found a couple of small birds there. I was amazed how they are surviving in this terrain and with standing rough climate. On the way our guide showed us a range of mountains and told behind these its the Himalayan Kingdom- Nepal. By now we have attained height of about 15000 ft and had a good view of lower area. Soon a bad view struck me... On the valley between the mountains I saw clouds rolling in approaching towards us. Though it was very far but it was approaching towards me. We were trying to reach as close as possible before the cloud hit us. By side there was a great Canyon. It was such a massive washout seems like some million power cloudburst would have done it. My guide explained that his grand father said generation ago a massive water from cloudburst (similar to Kedarnath I told) disaster happened which had left this signature.
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| Kanchenjunga Range with canyon |
After a tedious climb of 2 hrs we were at a place called view point. There were prayer flags and a chorten. The giant mighty Mt. Kanchenjunga was standing before us all cleared. We were in cloud nine. It was a breathtaking view to see such huge ones all together. Everyone had gone crazy. Pathik and Vikrant started doing push ups. Till few hours ago we were not sure, will we be able to reach till Samiti lake. My guide told Goecha la is 3 hrs trek from here. Everyone shouted at a stretch then lets do it. But my guide told "sir, we must return." No way I told. He turned back and showed us the clouds rolling in and if we proceed the cloud will hit us in mid way. So taking safety on concern we should return. The decision was disgusting, but have to.
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| my team Kanchenjunga at back |
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| Mt. Kanchenjunga zoomed |
Considering the experts advise we turned back after spending a hour and half there. We were happy, till yesterday the trek was complete washout but we have made till here. Before us many have returned from Thansing itself. We were lucky. Just then we heard a loud cracking sound. We were stunned. The surrounding was absolutely silent. We asked what the hell was that. Sunil told thats the sound of glacier cracking. OOPS was my word. We started descending saying a big thank you and goodbye to Kanchenjunga range. We again halted at Samiti. Appreciating nature's creation and thanking god for keeping it tough accessible to humans. Soon it started drizzling. We continued our trek. We reached Lamuney and slowed down our pace to hear our guide's explanation about Lamuney.
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| Pathik and Vicky |
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| Samiti Lake |
Lamuney had some tribal settlements which the government cleared and gave them settlement areas on plains. The symbol of their settlement are still at Lamuney. Chortens and engraving on rocks. He also told us that Lamuney has a wild mad Yak which often attack humans and animals, bit scary. It was raining and if the yak appeared where would we run. OOPS. Soon it started pouring heavily and we increased our pace. The visibility dropped to few meters and then we realized if we would have continued to Goecha la we would have struck in between badly. After struggling in rain with bare visibility we managed to reach Thansing. We decided again to change our plan. Will stay here and trek back to Tshoka not camping at Kockchurang. We had our dinner and enjoyed the day in the name of our achievement.
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| me at Last point. |
DAY 13: THANSING - TSHOKA
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| Thasing on the returning day. |
I woke up around 030 hrs. The view outside stunned me. Mist cool breeze and the smell of season's first snowfall. It was a heavenly feeling. The weather was bit clear and I was able to see the peak of all surrounding mountains which was brown till yesterday night was covered with fresh snow full white. Behind my room the kitchen guys were playing football and we too joined and shared a foot. By 0830 hrs we all were geared up and ready for departure. The weather was pleasant and started our trek conveying a big thank you. The return trail was different and extreme slippery due to days together rain. The route was same till Kockchurang. From there we took a different route skipping Dzongri and directly reaching Phethang.
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| Thansing |
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| in between Kockchurang and Phethang |
The trail was through 100% dense forest. Rain had made the trail so slippery that almost everyone had a fall at some point. This decreased our pace. By about 1400 hrs we reached Phethang after a challenging trek. It was a good experience walking in mud and dense forest. Few minutes after reaching Phethang a group of HMI students along with their instructors arrived. They were on their way to HMI after completion of phase 1 training. One of their instructor named Lamba was a professional mountaineer. He had many expeditions in his credit, which includes Mt.Everest. We saw him with respect. His entire family have credit of summiting 22 various peaks of Himalayas including Mt Everest and K2. I was happy and feeling lucky to meet him. After finishing the lunch we headed to Tshoka along with HIM batch. We reached Tshoka at about 4pm and pitched our tents. It was tiresome on the whole trek. The trail and the weather made so. Anyway we were happy about our achievement. Feeling proud. We spent the entire evening at a restaurant in Tshoka recollecting the entire trip and pros n cons. As the evening passed the clouds rolled in and it was dark. We headed to our tents. At dinner we had special feast and a cake celebrating the trek. We dedicated the cake to Danny our chief cook who prepared it.
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| my team with Mr.Lamba |
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| at Thansing |
DAY 14: TSHOKA - YUKSOM
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| Day 14 morning at Tshoka |
The final day. I stepped out of my tent to see the unbelievable view. It was bright sunny outside. Not a single cloud formation. The clean blue sky was visible. Now we were able to see some snow capped peaks from Tshoka itself. We were ready for final descent. We started our final trek at 0830 hrs. On the way near the bridge we met the other batch of IH. They had a tough time in Sachen due to rain. But they are lucky in my opinion. The batch was lead by our favourite lead, Aftab. He is a very good person with lot of energy and positive attitude. We had our lunch at Sachen. by 1500 hrs I was again at Kanchenjunga National Park gate.
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| me with Sunil |
Emotions flowed across me seeing the forest behind me. For last few days they were the best companions of mine. The time has come to leave them behind and I stepped into the Yuksom village. 1600 hrs I reached guest house. The owner welcomed me with a broad smile. We had a group dinner that night in a restaurant at Yuksom. To reach the market we had to walk a kilometer. It was 1800 hrs and the road to the restaurant was pitch dark. It was scary and pitch dark with no houses or shops around. After a cautious walk of half a hour we spotted the first source of light. Thank god! what an area. After a grand dinner we wished each other best of luck and will meet at some peak.
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| both Rahuls at the dinner |
On the whole, the trek was awesome and met a lot of nice people and experienced a lot. Though I couldn't able to reach till Goecha la, mother nature at least considered my prayers and allowed me to reach 3 hrs before Goecha la. Thanks a lot. I wish to do this trek again in summer and see Kanchenjunga as near as possible.
photo contributors : Pathik Khatwani, Rahul Jagtap, Vicky, Rahul Agarwal, Shimoj
for my pictures of Goecha La trek facebook album Click Here
